(On preceding page is a view of Pretoria looking westward through one of the arches of the government buildings)
Inherent in Christmas is the spirit of goodwill.
It prompts the sending of greeting cards to those who we especially cherish. It disregards all color lines and geographical boundaries. It underlies our whole Christian faith.
So, now that I have returned from a visit to Africa – – Cairo to Cape Town – – I want to emphasize that in no place in this world where it has been so far my privilege to visit, have I found so great a manifestation of “goodwill toward men” as in East Africa, the Rhodesians and the Union of South Africa. It abundantly manifests itself at slightest opportunity in courtesy, sincerity, honesty and cheery on selfishness. “White Africa’s” Christmas spirit, prevalent here the year ’round, is an outstanding memory I bring back from my five months’Safari among these friendly folks “down under”.
All my life I have had an urge to travel. But bringing up six children through two world wars and depressions, fulfilling business obligations, etc., All have conspired to make time and money for travel unavailable until arrival of the “calmer year”.
A trip to England and the continent in 1954 encouraged a more ambitious trip to Africa this year; but “Why Africa?” Is frequently asked. the mountain climbers answer, “because it’s there” is as good as any.
As a confirmed freighter traveler I left New York January 20 on a new region ship making its maiden voyage to the Persian Gulf – – first stop Genoa, Italy. Black line shows route from Cairo to Cape Town.
(Top Note): My camel driver, on the short ride from hotel to the Sphinx of the great pyramid, confided to me that his beast was “the real McCoy – – his name Pepsi Cola”.
(Bottom Note): The Great Mosque of Cairo as seen from the Citadel. Cairo, Africa’s largest city, the metropolis of the Nile, traces its origin not to the ancient Egyptians but to Arab invaders.
Flooding of a portion of the Sudan upon completion of the proposed Aswan dam may endanger this 3000-year-old Temple built by Ramses III, — “Farrow of the Exodus”. Notice the small carved figures between his feet, depicting wives – – quite unimportant factors by ancient Egyptian standards.
A Maasai lion killer wearing headdress made from the main of a lien indicates he has killed a lion with his own spear. Designs on Shield designates hunters clan. These are one of the fiercest tribes in Africa.
A plane flight over the equator from Khartoum in the Sudan brought me to Nairobi in Kenya (pronounced Kenya). While within just a few miles of the equator, the city enjoys ideal “June” weather because of its 5500 foot elevation. A superior grade of coffee and Sissel fiber for twine, mats and bags are important products of this region.
The much-publicized amount now troubles caused by a comparatively few of the fanatic native population a few years ago have now been practically wiped out. Ports in American newspapers of native unrest in Africa I believe are greatly exaggerated, as also reports in African papers of our own Little Rock troubles.
These boys are not worrying about it.
One of the charms of Victoria Falls is its unspoiled natural beauty. No hot dog stands, motels or souvenir shop Mart its appearance.
It was discovered by David living stone in 1855 and probably looks today just as it did then. It is more than a mile wide and from 256 to 343 feet high – – from 2 to 3 times the size of Niagara it is said to be the only place in the world where one can see a rainbow by moonlight when the moon is full. The rising cloud of missed make taking photos difficult except at low water. Readers of Rider Haggard’s books will be interested to know that the scene of his King Solomon’s Mines was located nearby.
“treetops”, situated on the perimeter of a huge game preserve, was where I watched from a 50 foot balcony of heard of 32 elephants dispute with a single ornery rhinoceros possession of a combination salt lick and waterhole. The elephants, while exhibiting no fear, concluded it was not worth battling the ugly, cantankerous rhino, so they all stood in a semi circle for perhaps an hour watching the interloper take possession of their salt lick, until, with a snorting contemptuous departure, he strolled off to allow his bigger cousins to resume their interrupted feast. The other animals gathered here, baboons, wart hogs, water buffalo, wildebeest, all accorded the rhino a healthy respect and gave him plenty of room.
Here also at Treetops in 1952 was in acted a modern fairy story. The van Princess Elizabeth and her husband Philip stayed overnight to view the wild animals. Next morning a royal messenger arrived announcing that her father, the King, had died overnight and she had awakened to find herself Queen Elisabeth of England.
Incidentally, a few years later the mom mouse burned treetops, later rebuilt as pictured.
Lake Tanganyika is said to be the longest lake in the world. Assuming it to be situated in the U. S., with one and in Bridgeport (Connecticut) it would find the other and halfway down the coast of North Carolina
On the two day journey from Kigoma to Moulunga the shore on both sides was visible on clear days.
Lake steamer on which I traveled was built in Germany before World War I, dismantled in pieces small enough to be transported through the African jungle on the backs of natives and reassembled on the shore of the lake. When, during the war, things were going poorly for the Germans, they thoroughly greased it and sunk it in the lake so that just the tops of the smokestacks showed above water. There it remained for four years. By treaty at wars and written acquired the territory, the boat was raised and reconditioned and these same engines were used to propel me to my destination.
A Zulu village which I visited about a days bus ride from Durban, consisted of six kraals (the chief had six wives) . Each wife has her own round hot or kraal (pronounced crawl).. The chief himself as we arrived was washing his feet from a quart size tin can. This fact did not seem to bother him nor his wives who seemingly had no urgent domestic chores. Everyone, including a horde of youngsters, soon lined up and went through several native dances, even the two-year-olds taking part, while a puppy to goats watched nonchalantly from the sidelines.
A chief, I am informed, can acquire a good-looking wife for 20 cows, holier ones for as low as 60. Quite some negotiations are necessary before the headman can acquire a wife. Her family are all called into conference – – uncles, aunts and even grandpa gets into the act. The girl herself has little to say in the matter.
If after the lapse of two years however, there are no little Zulus running around, the girl isn’t back to her folks and efforts made to get the purchase price back, often unavailingly.
Both Johannesburg (Jo-Burgfor short) and Durban, judged by American standards, are prosperous and progressive cities. Woolworth stores, supermarkets, frozen foods, etc., rank them ahead of most European cities in this respect. The people one sees on the streets are stylishly dressed, neat and clean looking – – one might indeed think he was on Fifth Avenue in New York.
American autos are numerous – – Chevys seem most popular and gas stations are almost exclusively Socony, (While Lad was in Venezuela, he worked for the Socony-Vacuum Oil Company) Atlantic (He had an Atlantic Service Station in the middle of Trumbull) and Shell, with their familiar signs. Highway markings – – solid and dotted white lines are the same – – the only difference being that everyone here drives on the wrong side of the road.
Here are a few statistics which may be interesting.
Total time of trip, one for one days
Average cost, $15 per day
Freighter service excellent but not recommended for those who must rely on tight time schedule.
The Orient still remains to be explored. Perhaps someday I may qualify as a seasoned world traveler.
A frequent site in Africa is the huge aunt Hills. This spire in Kenya was 35 feet high when the picture was taken. Some tribes relish aunts as a delicacy.